One of the great pleasures of my life is getting to dine with my 11-year-old son, Zephyr. The time we spend together at restaurants frees us both from our normal responsibilities and rhythms, giving rise to candid conversations and deeper engagement. On top of that, they love to eat and have strong opinions (just like Dad on both counts).

At a recent dinner at Cucina Morini in Mt. Vernon Triangle, Zephyr had nothing but good things to say as they savored the spread. I was equally impressed.

The restaurant is a reunion of talents. Matt Adler worked for the Altamarea Group for roughly eight years—including time as the executive chef of D.C.’s Osteria Morini and a stint at Convivio, a now-closed southern Italian restaurant in New York City—before leaving in 2016 to work for Michael Schlow and then finding success on his own with red sauce redoubt Caruso’s Grocery.

While cooking at the 10th anniversary celebration of Osteria Morini in November, Adler talked to the ownership team about how they were going to rebrand and reboot the space that was home to Nicoletta Italian Kitchen, which closed in January. At that moment, he didn’t think much of it. But after going home, he began considering his long-held dream of doing a southern Italian/Sicilian restaurant in D.C. He emailed the Altamarea Group’s CEO, Ahmass Fakahany, and corporate executive chef Bill Dorrler. They were intrigued, and the project came together quickly from there. 

“They trust me as a chef, and I trust them as business partners and operators,” says Adler, who is the chef-partner of Cucina Morini.

The front lounge area is consistently abuzz thanks to $7 martinis, which are only available in that part of the restaurant. With high ceilings, top-to-bottom windows facing the corner of 4th and I streets NW, and packed tables, the entire space gets loud quickly.

Crudos lead off the menu. Start with at least one. My favorite starred kampachi glistening with vinaigrette and featuring colatura di alici (fermented Italian fish sauce made with anchovies), along with orange and lemon juices to brighten up all the briny notes. To balance it out, each piece is finished with a small dollop of pistachio-based pesto sweetened with agrodolce.

Don’t sleep on the salads, especially the treviso. Its bitter chicory is mellowed by a lemon tahini harissa honey dressing, goat cheese, and toasted almonds. A slew of little plates demand attention as well, especially intensely flavorful roasted cauliflower vibrant with apricots, pistachios, lemon aioli, and more.

Available in half and full portions, pastas are a must. Think lamb ragu topped rigatoni and tubular paccheri hiding under eggplant, tomatoes, and ricotta salata. To keep OG Osteria Morini enthusiasts happy, Adler is rotating in a few classics from the sister spot. Right now, he’s featuring the rave-earning curlicue gramigna pasta, creamy with egg yolk, studded with sausage, and powered by plenty of black pepper.

There is also the beloved ricotta Parmesan cappelletti. The cherry yellow “little hats” are tossed in truffle-rich sauce punctuated with slender pink ribbons of prosciutto. Zephyr hoovered up two orders of it, minus the proscuitto since they’re vegetarian. “This is the best pasta ever,” they gushed, before guiltily adding, “Don’t worry, I still love the pasta you make at home, Dad.”

Speaking of carbs, it took nearly three months (and an assist from renowned cottage baker Jill Nguyen of Capitol Jill Baking) to create the sfincione: Sicilian pizza with spongy crust brushed with thick tomato sauce that reads like an individual-size focaccia. If you’re feeling a little bit extra, get it crowned with stracciatella or anchovies. We got ours with the milky, creamy cheese. Zephyr approved in a big way. “They nailed it,” they murmured approvingly between bites.

For hungry couples and groups, there are a handful of large-format dishes, such as seafood soup, seared scallops on lemony, herbaceous risotto, and roasted game hen fired up with a sheen of hot honey. The black bass baked al cartoccio (in parchment) is a head-turning showstopper. When the paper packet is cut open at the table, there’s a whoosh of aromatic awesomeness: saffron, roasted garlic, and lemon butter. Once the puff of steam clears, the whole fish comes into view, resting on a tender bed of fingerling potatoes, chickpeas, and cherry tomatoes.

Desserts are handled by executive pastry chef Katie Knevals, who has fun riffing on a couple classics. Think tiramisu hiding the flavors of creme brulee and an affogato-inspired sundae featuring vanilla and pistachio gelati, salted caramel sauce, marsala, and the requisite jolt of espresso. 

My favorite finale was an early taste of summer: tender orange-zested olive oil cake dusted with rosemary powder and complemented by whipped yogurt and tangy blueberry conserva. It was Zephyr’s fave, too. We didn’t leave a single crumb on the plate. “That was so nice,” they declared. “The orange was a really nice touch.”

On weekends, the restaurant offers brunch via its Caffè Morini alter ego. Those seeking something sweet will appreciate the croissant-like cornetti plumped up with pistachio cream, raspberry jam, whipped cream, and chocolate with toasted hazelnuts. For diners in a savory state of mind, there are plenty of choices: a crispy prosciutto fontina egg breakfast sandwich on hot honey-slathered brioche, ciabatta toast topped with smoked salmon and Calabrian chile crema, and truffled omelet.

I’m pretty sure Zephyr would be up for taking down a few cornetti. I’ll have to get a father-son brunch on the books soon.

Cucina Morini, 901 4th St. NW. (202) 697-6888. cucinamorini.com

This article has been updated to clarify that Jill Nguyen helped create the recipe for the sfincione.