The Dish: Cervelle de veau au beurre noir

Where to Get It: La Chaumière, 2813 M St. NW; (202) 338-1784;

Price: $14.50 for lunch or $17.75 for dinner

What It Is: Sautéed calf’s brain with brown butter, lemon, and capers, served with mashed potatoes, carrots, and baby bok choy.

What It Tastes Like: “Beefy silken tofu” comes to mind. The two lobes have a velvety texture and subtle beef flavor.

The Story: Chef Patrick Orange claims to be one of the last French chefs in D.C. who still uses the old-school French cooking methods of Auguste Escoffier. And that means preparing calf’s brains, a very classic French dish that’s been mostly abandoned in the U.S. Now that head-to-tail cooking is cool, maybe it’ll see a resurgence?

Brain Tease: La Chaumière serves 10 pounds of calf brains a week.

Photo by Mary Kong-DeVito