The Dish: pizza slice

The Location: House of Philly, 2311 Calvert St. NW, (202) 265-3500.

The Price: $3.50

The Skinny: Those looking for a respite from the famed monstrosities of Adams Morgan’s 18th Street nightlife corridor have one just over the Duke Ellington Bridge. It’s not much to look at, it’s a tad heavy on the cheese, and sometimes there’s a bit of a wait. But House of Philly’s slice is ample without being ginormous, and the chief merit isn’t its size: Full and comfort-foody, the slice’s crust almost takes on the taste and chewiness of actual bread, not cardboard, after a while. It succeeds by inverting the normal pizza formula—the toppings seem to be the excuse for the crust, not vice versa.