We know D.C. Get our free newsletter to stay in the know.

Nam’s of Bethesda wasn’t the first place you’d pick if you were looking for classic Vietnamese food, but the restaurant understood its mandate: Give MoCo a taste of the complex cuisine in a soothing, friendly, non-threatening way. Even better, chef Dune K. Huynh knew how to use fish sauce to its fullest effect. Her ginger salad was absolutely transformed with a careful application of nuoc mam, which lightly coated a plate of lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, and other greens. “With ginger in (the nuoc mam), you can’t smell the fish,” she explained to me last year in a column about the mysteries of fish sauce.

Well, Nam’s is no more.

After a decidedly mixed experience at Mia’s Pizzas on Sunday, I noticed that the pizzeria’s next-door neighbor was closed up tight. Black plastic covered some of the windows, but not all of them. I could see Nam’s old black chairs unceremoniously stacked in the corner and lumber littering the entrance. A sign taped to the window promised a new place that will serve “exquisite Thai cuisine.”

It’s so exquisite that its name appears to be—-drum roll, please—-“Thai Restaurant.”