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The Dish: Jessica’s Fried Twinkie Sundae

The Location: Urban Burger Company, 5566 Norbeck Road, Rockville, (301) 460-0050.

The Price: $4

The Skinny: The dudes responsible for Urban Bar-B-Que in Rockville have ditched the convection-oven smoker in favor of the good ol’ American grill with their latest operation, Urban Burger Company in Aspen Hill. What the owners haven’t abandoned is their penchant for piling it on thick. This gut-busting dessert begins with that famous “golden sponge cake,” the star of many a school lunch, except that this one is rolled in panko and quickly fried in Mazola corn oil. The crunchy log is then placed over two scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream and drizzled with thick, gooey caramel, so that the whole thing resembles—-and there’s no reason to mince words here—-male genitalia at rest. The first taste is as jarring as the presentation. Amid the sugary sauce and the rich, aromatic ice cream, you taste both oil and the savory coating. It’s like a funnel-cake mated with a cream-filled corn dog. Part of me is disgusted by the whole concoction, but I keep shoveling forkful after forkful into my mouth. If this is upscale carny food, then I must have a distant relative who used to train fleas.