The tale of chef Peter Smith‘s warm foie gras custard at PS 7’s in three acts:

Act I: In his Nov. 12, 2006, review of PS 7’s, the Post‘s Tom Sietsema says “Smith’s foie gras custard is elegant in its simplicity: Cream and duck liver combine to form a silken pudding, its richness cut with a little garnish of crisp green apple threads.”

Act II: In my Jan. 19 review, I write that “a few spoons into it, the dish begins to look like curdled milk and tastes, on every bite, like used sweat socks.”

Act III: Smith pulls the liver custard from his spring dinner menu in favor of seared foie gras. “I don’t find that there’s any in between [with the dish],” says PS 7’s publicist Bronwyn Jacoby. “People either love it or they hate it, really. Because people just love foie gras sliced, out of the terrine, done. People can be very simple when it comes to foie gras.”