The Drink: Pisco sour

The Location: Las Canteras, 2307 18th Street NW, (202) 265-1780

The Price: $8

The Buzz: While pisco has versatility, as we saw last week, the Peruvian grape brandy is the foundation of Peru’s classic drink, the pisco sour. The newly opened Las Canteras in Adams Morgan serves it as its house cocktail, and I imagine it comforts many a Peruvian expat. The drink is a combination of pisco, lime juice, sugar, Angostura bitters, and a whipped egg white, all topped with a healthy sprinkling of cinnamon. The egg white becomes a thick, frothy foam that floats on the liquid like the head of a beer. As I go in for a sip, the overwhelming smell is a comforting, toasty cinnamon. At first, all I can get is the limey foam, which all but dissolves in my mouth. A couple more sips, and the liquid finds its path through the egg white, and it’s shockingly good: sweet, sour, citric, refreshing, but never losing its warm, spicy nose. The only downer is that, unlike beer, the head never disappears; it just keeps slipping lower until all the liquid is gone, and I’m left with half a glass of foam that refuses to slide no matter how steep I tip the glass. If I’d had a spoon, I would have scooped it out like ice cream, and it would have been just as satisfying.