The waitress at RedRocks Firebrick Pizzeria, the new pie purveyor in Columbia Heights, asked if my wife, Carrie, and I would like a bottomless mimosa ($9) with our order during a Saturday-afternoon stopover. I’m pretty much a hidebound beer conservative when it comes to pizza, but I thought I’d give the prissy little pairing a try.

I ordered a Margherita to see how well Executive Chef Edan MacQuaid, formerly of 2 Amys, handles the classic. The pie itself is thinner than Dick Cheney’s lips (and much tastier, I suspect); the crust is bubbled, crunchy, and as blackened as a coal miner at the end of the work day. The pizza is also splotched with a slightly sweet red sauce, dollops of buffalo mozzarella, some ever-so-charred basil, and streaks of olive oil.

It’s the olive oil that makes this pie pair so well with the mimosa. The fruitiness of the oil leads nicely into the fruit of the champagne cocktail, which also provides a tart and carbonated counterpoint. I was absolutely delighted with the pairing, even if I was alarmed to see my little pinky involuntarily poke the air as I downed the drink.

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