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Those of you who couldn’t wait for the New York Times to hit the publish button last night—-and you know who you are—-have already dissected this piece like a lab specimen. But for you non-obsessives, here’s critic Frank Bruni‘s review of Fiamma, the sort-of Italian, sort-of not restaurant that lured away former Maestro toque (and Beard Award winner) Fabio Trabocchi.

Before Trabocchi split for the Big Apple, he earned four stars from both the Washington Post and the Washingtonian. In Bruni’s estimation, the chef rates no better than three. Is this a case of D.C. critics being too easy or the Times being too hard? Or perhaps New Yorkers just can’t hand out four stars to newcomers, particularly those from the District. Discuss.