The dish: N’oreo cookie
The location: Sticky Fingers Bakery, 1370 Park Road NW, (202) 299-9700.
The price: $1.75
The skinny: The other day I was eating some serious humble pie. It came in the form of a cookie—-the Liz Lovely Cowboy Cookie, which I bought at my favorite patchouli patch of self-righteousness, the natural food co-op in Takoma Park. This tasty vegan treat, thick with rolled oats and rich with dark chocolate, made me think I had been a little rash in my previously published dismissal of Sticky Fingers Bakery. So I decided to give the Columbia Heights vegan sweets shop another try. My wife, Carrie, ordered a brownie with peppermint frosting, which she really liked (and I thought tasted like Dow Chemical and Altoids had gone into the baking business together). But I was quite fond of my order of milk and cookies. Well, at least the cookie part, which is the bakery’s riff on an Oreo. (An aside: I asked the guy behind the counter to explain the name. I knew it was a stupid question, and I got a stupid answer: “It’s like an Oreo, except it’s not an Oreo.”) My N’oreo featured two deep, dark chocolate cookies (made with margarine, not butter) pressing down on a thin, slightly goopy layer of mint frosting, which was strong but not overwhelming. What I liked about the cookie was its moistness and chewiness; unlike a real Oreo, it required no milk to soften it up. Which, in my case, was a good thing. First off, I couldn’t crack open my container of Silk soy milk and, second (and more important), the demon liquid inside tasted like watery beans. I wasn’t about to dunk my sweet and chocolaty cookie into that crap.