City Paper is not for tourists
The anchor of Eden Center closed its doors today. Huong Que/Four Sisters, which opened in Eden Center in 1991—and expanded in 1997—-sent out an e-mail alert this afternoon announcing its closure. The alert did not say when CP‘s pick for Best Vietnamese will reopen at its long-awaited new location, the corner of Lee Highway and Gallows Road in Falls Church. That move, according to a cover story (“Out of Eden,” 8/25/06) by our food critic Tim Carman, was supposed to have happened at the end of 2007. I checked in this past June and was told it would happen at the end of July.
Taking over the space is Song Que Deli & Bakery, which, like Four Sisters, is owned by Kim Lai and Thanh Tran (parents of the aforementioned sisters). It’s an interesting risk: Kim and Thanh are betting that their customers will follow them out of Eden and that their expanded bakery will continue the transformation of their little corner in little Ho Chi Minh City from the “bad-luck place” to a success that has outgrown thousands of parking spaces. If the deli’s sandwiches are as good as the restaurant’s pho and the salt-and-pepper squid, I’d say they’ll still be counting their money a year from now—-when Four Sisters finally reopens.