This weekend, the wife and I finally had the chance to eat at Bazin’s on Church, the casual, comfy, sort of self-consciously classy restaurant that former Occidental chef Patrick Bazin opened in 2006 with his wife, Julie. I found a number of things to admire about Bazin’s brunch menu, notably a plate of huevos rancheros right there in the middle of white-bread Vienna. It’s a fussy bowl of food, to be sure, overflowing with seasoned pulled chicken, Jack cheese, over-easy eggs, creme fraiche, and two extremely crispy tortillas to provide an element of crunch. The dish won’t remind you of a taqueria in Texas, but it’ll still make you very happy.

But the strangest thing I sampled at Bazin’s was the chef’s take on Navajo fry bread. This appetizer basket of sweetened bread sticks looked nothing like the traditional fry bread, which tends to be flat. The sticks also had a chewy, dense crumb, almost like pretzel dough, and the fried sticks came rolled in sugar and cinnamon. They reminded me more of Mexican churros than Navajo fry bread. I can’t say I recommend them as a sort of sweet Sunday morning pastry.

For a lesson on how to make real Navajo fry bread, watch the video after the jump.