Next week’s Young & Hungry column takes a look at Peruvian chifa cuisine through the perspective of two different eateries: Yaku, the modern glass-house of a restaurant owned by Mauricio “Mr. Idea Man” Fraga-Rosenfeld of Latin Concepts, and Aroma, a strip-mall joint in Olney co-owned by Javier Angeles-Beron, Fraga-Rosenfeld’s former executive chef.

Their approaches are radically different, not only with the way they plate and present chifa dishes, but also with the way they cover their tables. Strangely enough, Aroma, the more neighborhood-y of the two restaurants, throws white linen over its tables. Fraga-Rosenfeld prefers the sleek modernity of glass tops.

“I am an enemy of tablecloths,” Fraga-Rosenfeld told me earlier this week. “I like to see wood and glass. I want to be as informal as possible.”

What say you? Do you prefer tablecloths or plain ol’ tables?

Photo by abolotnov