Churreria Madrid
2505 Champlain St., Washington, DC 20009

(202) 483-4441

Aside from mainlining blubber directly into your veins, fried dough might be the worst thing that you can put into your body. But if you’re willing to sacrifice some of the remaining elasticity in your arteries, Churreria Madrid’s churros are worth a try. You certainly get a lot for your money: A plate of 10 or so sugar-covered eyelets of fried-to-order dough runs about $3 and if you aren’t enough of a glutton to finish them all at the table, they still taste surprisingly good a few hours later after the grease has cooled. They’re definitely a step up from the stale, sugary ropes that popularized the churro as a staple of boardwalk-and-zoo cuisine. Dinner, however, made less engaging use of hot oil. A plate consisting of fried eggs, fried peppers, fried potatoes, and Spanish sausage was soggy with grease, even by the standards and expectations of an entirely fried entree. —Aaron Leitko