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Think of the Dogfish Head Alehouse less as a place to eat than as a food trough to fill your stomach so you can enjoy more of the Delaware brewery’s high-alcohol, highly addictive craft beers. The Falls Church ale house, the second locally owned franchisee of the famous brew pub in Rehoboth Beach, looks more conceptualized (kind of a Bennigans-meets-boat-house ambience) than the Gaithersburg outlet, even though both places share virtually the same menu. Grease and carbs will demand all your attention, but don’t overlook the lowly Caesar, a small bowl for chopped romaine served with a powerful, tart roasted garlic dressing and slivers of Parmesan. The double-patty barbecue burger, by contrast, is a mountain of meat, tomato, bacon, cheddar, and a lone onion ring; if it weren’t for the sandwich’s utter mushiness, you’d never be able to get your mouth around the sweet-and-savory concoction. The ultra-thin-crust pepperoni pizza comes with three different cheeses, including, ugh, provolone. It results in a pie so thick with cheese that you can hear Peter Pastan’s heart breaking (or stop beating) all the way over at 2Amys. The only reason to walk in the door at the Dogfish Head Alehouse is found not on the food menu, but at the bar, where they pull some of America’s best beers, including a coffee-like Chicory Stout that’s good drinking during these cold winter nights.
