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British street food still hasn’t enjoyed the renaissance that British haute cuisine has enjoyed in the past decade—want fries with mashed peas on top? Nope, me neither—but damn do I miss me some onion bhaji. The palm-sized fritters, called pakoda by some, are—probably for the same reason you don’t often see General Tso’s chicken in British Chinese restaurants—hard to find stateside. Bombay Curry Company’s bhaji include potato chunks in the delicately spiced binding batter, and they are a glob of deep-fried, lip-burning heaven. The butter chicken also makes me glad I get a lot of exercise, but you don’t have to court death to eat here. There’s a tasty coconut-based fish curry and a kicky vegetable biryani, and any of the vegetable sides can be ordered as an entrée. Try the dal makhani, smoky, slow-cooked lentils, or the kadai chole, spicy chickpeas. They’re all grand, but oh, those bhaji: they’re still better than anything that’s ever slithered out of a chippie’s fryer at closing time. And even better, they won’t kick you in the stomach the next morning like that fifth pint most assuredly will.