The pie-maker at Seventh Hill Pizza is named “Anthony,” an employee tells me at the pizzeria on Capitol Hill. Try as I might to secure his surname, I can’t get the job done because no one, the following day, will pick up the damn phone at the place. No matter. Anthony is a show all by himself. He has style to burn. Every move he makes with the raw dough — flipping, spinning, stretching, securing the round on his peel — has more flair than your average NFL end-zone celebration.
His crusts, by contrast, don’t feel the need to show off. They’re ultra-thin and crispy, which makes me think Anthony doesn’t use olive oil in his dough. Perhaps Anthony doesn’t let his dough rise long enough, either. His crusts are content to supply a basic cracker-ness, but they’re also nicely chewy and his toppings provide more than enough flavor to fill in the blanks.
I’m particularly fond of the Navy Yard toppings ($10.95 for a small), mostly because of the Toulouse sausage, which releases enough grease along the surface to add a layer of fatty goodness to the pie. The French sausage is not only a delicious addition but also a sly indication of Seventh Hill’s owners: They’re the same folks behind Montmartre.