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We gastronomes love to place value on simply prepared, hand-crafted foods, whether the house-made pasta at a downtown “trattoria” or the breads that pop, warm and crusty, from a local baker’s oven.

But how many of us take advantage of one of the best hand-crafted bites in the area — the Salvadoran pupusa? Every day, transplants hand-roll pupusas, whether cheese or pork or loroco, at countless trucks and mom-and-pop restaurants in Montgomery County, Prince George’s County, and other jurisdictions. And every day, how often do we eat them or even talk about them?

This weekend, I was transfixed, once again, by watching a woman roll a pupusa at a shop in Wheaton. It looks so simple, but like so many kitchen skills, I bet it takes weeks, maybe months, to perfect.