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I flew out of BWI yesterday, and was reminded that despite its location the airport has a few things going for it, the best of which may be the absence of JetRock Bar and Grill.

JetRock, a mainstay of the DCA and Dulles concourses, is an airport-only chain owned by the OTG Management group and quite possibly the worst food-service brand in Christendom.  OTG is apparently not doomed to such bad ideas, since the company also developed the food-serious new Terminal 5 for JetBlue at JFK.

But JetRock plainly makes no sense (not least because the company sometimes spells it “JetRock” and sometimes “Jet Rock”).  Its logo has an electric guitar and the OTG web site claims that the restaurant “is a celebration of music and food.” But the name and type treatment are also supposed to remind us in some way of air travel.  One gets the sense that JetRock is a clip-art monorail image away from truly nailing the retro-futurist theme.

The mash-up aesthetic informs the menu, too.  The must-try dish is obviously the Jet Rock Sampler, which includes many of the most exciting appetizers: buffalo chicken wontons, guacamole egg roll, “fried mac n cheez” and the BBQ pork sliders.

The only problem with the sampler is that it omits the “Wasabi Mooshu Tuna Roll,” which is best described in all the words the menu uses: “Ahi Tuna rubbed in wasabi, scallions, pickled ginger wrapped in a mooshu wrapper and lightly fried and served with sprout and edamame salad.”

Before BWI concession authorities get off too easy, let’s remember that they brought in a Euro Cafe, the comically slow-moving coffee counter — certainly I couldn’t have been the first customer with a plane to catch? — that has done more than Greek finance officials to give the euro a bad name.