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As part of his ongoing series to review D.C.’s culinary history, Kojo Nnamdi will look back at the 1960s and 1970s when the District started to shed its image as a culinary jerkwater town. That, in large part, was due to the man in the video above: the brilliant, the belligerent Jean-Louis Palladin, whose restaurant at the Watergate put Washington on the map.

For today’s program, Nnamdi will speak with former Washington Post food critic Phyllis Richman and Marvelous Market/Breadline founder Mark Furstenberg (the man who likes his portable espresso machine) about D.C.’s transition into a restaurant town.

This conversation will no doubt focus on the  man above. Just watch this crudely produced video for some insight into Palladin’s kitchen psyche. He wasn’t just a classically trained French chef trying to refashion Washington into some New World Paris.  No, he worked with local ingredients, like the shad roe in the video above, making him (arguably) the true pioneer of the local/seasonal movement in the area.

Tune into Kojo today at noon to hear more about Palladin and the other people who shaped D.C.’s culinary landscape. The Kojo Nnamdi Show can be heard on WAMU, 88.5 FM.