If there’s one thing I’ve learned from talking to Peter Pastan, it’s that he doesn’t give a rat’s ass what I (or anyone else) think about his restaurants. I’m not even sure he follows the food media. His singular attention is on his two establishments, 2Amys and this little rustic Italian eatery off Dupont Circle, where he and his longtime head chef, Esther Lee, construct a new tasting menu every day. It’s this devotion to a cause that continues to separate Obelisk from the other Italian contenders that have popped up in recent years. Now I just wish Pastan would pay more attention to his décor. His place looks as dated as the J. Edgar Hoover Building.

2029 P St. NW (202) 872-1180