We know D.C. Get our free newsletter to stay in the know.

As reported Tuesday, art critic Blake Gopnik is leaving The Washington Post‘s Style section and is “taking on a new opportunity in New York, the place he has long understood and explained but will now fully inhabit.” Let’s take a quick look back on Gopnik’s brief but memorable 2004 foray into the world of D.C. food writing, reviewing the National Gallery of Art’s gelato offerings.

At the time, the review struck a nerve, with jokes about how Gopnik’s gelato-gazing might signal that it’s a “good time to rethink the curatorial program of the museum.”

Take a walk down memory lane with Gopnik as he pairs up noted artists with gelato flavors:

[Eleonora] Luciano, the [NGA assistant curator of sculpture] expert, made the call on the gallery’s chocolate gelato: Bernini would be its patron saint. It was slightly firmer than the other gelati, richer and more baroque in flavor profile. It was also an obvious crowd-pleaser that still offered depths for further contemplation. Extravagant and carefully contrived, at once.”

But Blake shouldn’t worry. There’s plenty of great gelato in New York.

Photo of New York City’s Ciao Bella gelato by Flickr user pravin.premkumar using a Attribution 2.0 Generic Creative Commons license