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Among the many classic American recipes that celebrated chef José Andrés has planned for his upcoming pop-up restaurant, America Eats Tavern, opening the weekend of July 4 in the former Cafe Atlantico space, is one regional delicacy of which I am regretfully unfamiliar. That is the burgoo (pictured), described in Wednesday’s Express Night Out preview as “a spicy stew from Kentucky that used whatever meat was on hand.”
Unfortunately, however, Andrés will not have carte blanche in picking the random meats for his own rendition of the Blue Grass State’s culinary treasure. “I wish I could use squirrel,” he says, “but I can’t.”