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Michel Richard used to talk up his love of the meatball. Now that he’s become the face of a meatball-centric restaurant, Penn Quarter’s simply titled Meatballs—-a hugely hyped venture somewhat sullied by lukewarm reviews—-the famed French chef suddenly seems less enthused. Asked by Victorino Matus, a senior editor at The Weekly Standard, about his new house of rounded meats recently, the Citronelle and Central boss was less than forthcoming:

“I sold them the recipe,” was all the chef offered. And he stressed that “we must try harder every day,” a not-so-subtle hint that things could be better. Otherwise he was mum.

Photo by Chris Shott