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After leaving his high-profile post at BLT Steak in March, chef Victor Albisu is finally re-emerging with a new project: an authentic Mexican taqueria in Falls Church. The dressed-down restaurant will be located two doors from a Latino market his mother owns called Plaza Latina on Pimmit Drive (right off Route 7). The 20-30-seat spot, which he’s tentatively calling Taco Bamba, is expected to open in about a month.
The no-frills menu will include $2-3 tacos filled with odd bits like sweetbreads and tongue as well as pork and pineapple, chorizo straight from his mom’s butcher counter, and more. You’ll also find grilled corn and sopes, as well as a “really kick ass Cuban sandwich” to pay homage to his Cuban roots. (As a kid, Albisu sold Cuban sandwiches behind a “Victor’s Deli” sign in his mom’s market, then in Alexandria.)
“Tacos are one of my very favorite foods,” Victor explains. “I have nothing else to do right now, so it better be pretty good.”
He tells us he’s taking inspiration from his favorite taco stand: R&R Taqueria, located in a gas station in Elkridge, Md.
“These things are the real deal,” Albisu says. “I want to take that kind of authenticity and make it accessible to people.”
Though it’s still in the beginning stages, Albisu is already thinking about opening other taquerias elsewhere. And it isn’t the only concept he has in the works, but he says it will keep him occupied while he gets a bigger project off the ground.
Photo by Jessica Sidman