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All this month, Food Wine & Co. in Bethesda is offering its popular tater tots for only $1 during happy hour at the bar (weekdays, 4:30-6 p.m.). Even bottled water costs more these days.

These aren’t your average tater tots. These ones are plump, crisp, and juicy—filled with heavy helpings of Gruyere and parsley—and served with a side of homemade ketchup with a kick of Sriracha. The sauce is somewhat unnecessary; these tater tots don’t need anything other than themselves to satisfy.

Shamefully, I rarely make it beyond the borders of the District, so you can imagine I wasn’t exactly clamoring at the idea of trekking it out to Bethesda for tater tots of all things. I’m sure glad I did. If it’s just a light snack to go with your beer at happy hour, then don’t bother with anything else. Yeah, the sweet basil mussels were good and the deviled eggs worth ordering, but they cower next to the tots. You won’t want to share, so if you’re not alone, shell out an extra buck for your dining companion.

(Word to the wise: Make sure you’re getting the $1 deal, because many of the happy hour menus still list the tots as $4.)

Food Wine & Co., 7272 Wisconsin Ave. #2, Bethesda; (301) 652-8008; foodwineandco.com

Photo by Russell Warnick