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Komi alum Johnny Spero and Acqua Al 2 chef/owner Ari Gejdenson will officially open Sūna, a fine-dining restaurant that’s “inspired by nature,” on Wednesday.
The team has managed to keep the restaurant’s exact location under wraps for months, but now the secret is out: It’s located at 214 7th St. SE, above Acqua Al 2.
Spero, who’s helming the kitchen, will serve two seasonally changing tasting menus: four courses for $48 or eight for $78. Beverage pairings are an additional $32 or $52, respectively. His modernist techniques and eclectic flavors are informed not only by Komi, but also stints at nationally acclaimed Town House in Chilhowie, Va. and Toki Underground. He’s also staged at Noma in Copenhagen, which has been repeatedly named “the world’s best restaurant.”
The menu starts with a root vegetable dish made of roasted beets, sarsaparilla-flavored candied celery root, pickled shaved kohlrabi, raw shaved carrots, a brown butter emulsion, and an arugula granita. Spero says another highlight is a roasted breast of guinea hen with a mixture of grains and oats, crispy hen skin, sunchokes, and shaved broccoli florets and stems. The former Komi pastry chef is also excited for the light and fluffy aerated hazelnut parfait served with a cocoa coffee crumble and hazelnut butter.
The 36-seat space is sparse and raw with reclaimed wood walls and beams, exposed brick, and three skylights. There are four additional counter seats overlooking the open kitchen, which sits in the back. “It’s very natural, not a lot to distract,” Spero says. Highbrow cuisine notwithstanding, he wants it to be a laid-back place: “We don’t want it to be stuffy. We want people to be loud and have a good time.”
Sūna will be open for dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday.
Photo by Jessica Sidman