This week’s Y&H column delves into DGS Delicatessen, D.C.’s hip new take on the Jewish deli.

Much of the menu consists of lighter versions on artery-clogging deli classics. But there’s one menu item you might want to loosen your belt for. This week, chef Barry Koslow introduced schmutzy fries, apparently the answer to “What should I gorge on after one too many Mazel Tov cocktails?”

Schmutzy means “dirty” in Yiddish. After all, the fries are topped with pastrami, sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese, and house-made harissa. Koslow calls the $9 dish a cross between Jewish nachos and poutine—or a rueben on fries.

“It was something that the cooks were eating,” Koslow explains. “And I said, ‘Hey man, that looks awesome.’ And I tried it, and it was.”

DGS Delicatessen, 1317 Connecticut Ave. NW; (202) 293-4400;