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Old school egg creams are making a comeback. At least three new eateries, including DGS Delicatessen and Farmers Fishers Bakers, offer the New York soda shop classic. In particular, mixologist Gina Chersevani of Buffalo & Bergen in Union Market has gone to great lengths to perfect the drink, even bringing in a custom soda machine from an old Woolworth’s in Chicago. She explains what makes a proper egg cream.

Graphic by Jandos Rothstein