The Sandwich: Roasted Cauliflower

Where: G Sandwich Shop, 2201 14th St. NW

Price: $8

Bread: Sesame roll

Stuffings: Roasted cauliflower, pickled vegetables, romesco sauce, and paprika

Thickness: 3.25 inches

Sloppiness level (1–5): 2. A bit of sauce and a few florets escape the confines of the roll when you take a bite, but this sandwich only requires one napkin. It’s best eaten right away; wait too long and it can get slightly soggy.

Pros: Beyond the romesco—that glorious pureed red pepper and nut condiment that improves every food it touches—the pickled vegetables shine because they’re not overwhelmingly sour. The cauliflower, though simply seasoned, achieves a perfectly crisp texture and rightly becomes the star of the sandwich. It’s filling but doesn’t leave you feeling weighed down hours later.

Cons: The roll seems a bit too crunchy for its stuffings and can leave weaker-jawed eaters tired about three-quarters of the way through the sandwich. A slightly softer bread may alleviate this quibble.

Overall score (1–5): 4.5. Omnivores won’t mourn the absence of meat in this Mike Isabella creation, which is about as high a compliment as a vegetarian sandwich can receive. Add a small pinch of salt and a chewier bread, and this work of sandwich art earns a perfect score.

Photo by Caroline Jones