The Sandwich: Pop’s Beef Brisket

Where: Bub and Pop’s, 1815 M St. NW

Price: $8 for a half, $13 for a whole

Bread: White hoagie roll

Stuffings: Beef brisket, apple-horseradish cream, five-year aged Gouda, veal jus

Thickness: 4 inches

Pros: The piles of paper-thin brisket burst with slow-roasted flavor. It’s rich, but it won’t leave you entirely bloated. The veal jus amps up the beefiness, while the apple-horseradish cream, though buried in the crevice of the roll, offers a zippy sweetness that makes an otherwise drippy sandwich crisper and slightly less salty.

Cons: The distribution of the horseradish cream yields uneven bites. After devouring the meat, you’re left with a sliver of bread covered in a sauce that’s a bit too tart to enjoy on its own. And the crumbly texture of aged Gouda doesn’t meld well with the chewy beef, even if it does add a nice nutty taste.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 4. Blame the jus. With carryout, the meat juice drenches the roll, turning the top of the sandwich into a congealed, soggy glob of meat and bread. This dish is best for dining in, not toting back to the office.

Overall score (1 to 5): 3. The brisket goes down smooth. But the off-kilter layout and messy presentation distract you from the sandwich’s better qualities. Next time, grab a seat at Bub and Pop’s and don’t wait to eat.

Photo by Caroline Jones