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Bartender: Phil Anova
Where: Mandu, 453 K St. NW
Mystery Ingredient: Ground sumac
Bartender Response: “I thought it was kind of cool. I’ve never worked with it before; I’ve only had it on lamb,” he said.
What We Got: Anova steeped the sumac as if it was a tea to create a “sumac water.” A lemon wedge spritzed in reinforced the spice’s tartness. He then added the liquid to a mixture of Pimm’s, Campari, and simple syrup.
How It Tasted: The sumac’s distinctive smell hit me first: citrusy, with some savory funkiness. But in Anova’s hands, a spice that’s often used on grilled meats seemed totally at home in a spring cocktail. Pimm’s mellowed out the sumac water, and the whole thing was a little bit sweet and a little bit bitter. It’s the kind of drink you’d want to order again, immediately.
Improv Points (1 to 5): 5. Steeping the sumac was a neat idea, and the cocktail toed the line between savory and sweet in an interesting way. “I wanted to make the sumac stand out,” Anova said. Consider it done.
Recipe:
1 ounce Pimm’s
1/2 ounce Campari
A splash of simple syrup to taste
1.5 ounces sumac water*
Lemon twist
Combine the above ingredients in a lowball glass with one big ice cube. Garnish with a lemon twist.
*To make sumac water, add one tablespoon sumac in two cups hot water. Steep for five minutes. Strain liquid through a coffee filter. Spritz lemon juice from one lemon wedge into the sumac water.
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