The people at Li Ho Food in Chinatown probably get their share of vacant stares. A minute of my looking lost and the lady behind the counter knows what I’m after. “Singapore noodle?” she asks. I’m hardly given the chance to respond before a dish is thrown in front of me like the blue plate special at a greasy spoon. Discrete chunks of jalapeño pepper give this pile of shrimp, pork, egg, chive, and noodle its kick; the $3.75 lunchtime price tag (it’s $7.50 at dinner) and the mass of it all make it a twice-weekly dish for some. Smokers welcome.

Eatery tips? Hot plates? Send suggestions to Or call (202) 332-2100 and ask for my voice mail. CP