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AS SOMEONE WHO IS, to cop your new column name, young and hungry, I began reading the work of your new restaurant reviewer with relish. I’ve been very disappointed by the writer’s lack of wordcraft and culinary knowledge and appalled by his (her?) frat-party, college-paper antics. Among the squirmier bits: the oh-so original, very mature way he/she dubbed a college buddy “Beavis” and went into the waiter’s odd behavior at Otello ad nauseam, and the seemingly written-while-drunk review of Polly’s. After reading Brett Anderson’s stilted, self-conscious prose, I’m thankfully still young, but no longer one bit hungry.