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Sometimes I just want a pint and some stick-to-my-ribs indie rock. Sure, I enjoy a delightfully surprising artichoke heart like the Magnetic Fields now and again, and asparagus like Belle and Sebastian is certainly good for me, but I’ve really got to be in the mood. It’s the real seitan-and-potato bands like Superchunk or the Wedding Present that always hit the spot. That’s why I’ve been savoring the new Versus record, Hurrah. It’s not as rare as the band’s early work but still tender enough to avoid being chewy. The album uses a lot of spices, everything from breakbeats in “Eskimo” to a tastefully borrowed Smiths piano riff on “Walkabout.” For traditionalists, “Frederick’s of Hollywood” is a two-chord sonic-feast that should expand in your stomach nicely. Versus’ live show should come out a perfect medium-well. With Yo La Tengo for dessert at 10 p.m. at the 9:30 Club, 815 V St. NW. $14. (202) 393-0930. (Brian Nelson)