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Closed: Aug. 9

Reopened: Aug. 10

History: Bangkok One was closed last summer for inadequate hand-washing facilities, unsuitable food and nonfood surfaces and equipment, contaminated foods and ingredients, hazardous temperatures on frozen foods, no certified food manager on duty, rodents, inadequate and unclean storage areas, and improper operating methods.

Health Department Says: operating a food establishment with gross insanitary conditions, operating a food establishment with circumstances that may endanger public health, incorrect hot and cold holding temperatures for potentially hazardous foods

Business Says: Bad timing. When manager Hoy Nilanont’s dishwasher didn’t show up for work one day, he figured he could let the dirties accumulate through lunch, and once things slowed down, he and his staff would take care of the dishwashing duties. But the health inspector showed up smack in the middle of the lunch rush and was horrified to find about 20 washer loads of dirty dishes piled up in the kitchen. She assumed they were left over from the night before; Nilanont insists that they were all from lunch. But he saved his breath. “You say ‘OK,’” he says, shaking his head. “You just don’t want to argue with them.” The refrigerator temperature was measured at five degrees higher than it should have been. “But if you open and close the doors that many times, it raises the temperature,” protests Nilanont. He says that by the time the inspector finished, the temperature had already fallen back into the acceptable range. The inspector also noted that the dial on the dishwasher didn’t turn properly. Nilanont says it just turned very slowly, and, because the numbers had worn off, it was difficult to see. After closing for the night, the restaurant was reinspected the next morning and given a clean bill of health; Nilanont fixed the dishwasher problem by marking the dial with white-out. Though the closure hurt, Nilanont doesn’t dwell on it. “What do you want to do, sue them?” he asks.—Huan Hsu