There are prettier dining rooms than the stripped-down strip-mall space that is Bombay Indian Restaurant. Off the top of my head, I’d say Heritage India in Glover Park, Rasika in Penn Quarter, Indique in Cleveland Park, and Passage to India in Bethesda all have the goods on Bombay in terms of atmosphere. But when you don’t feel like paying to support these fancy cribs—and just want a deep, delicious dish of butter chicken—all you have to do is make a trip to this humble Silver Spring outlet. Chef Anthony Binod’s cooking has all the layered complexity you expect from great Indian food without any of the trend-mongering. And, just as important, Binod doesn’t wimp out on the heat in some condescending attempt to cater to the American palate. From his veggie samosas—massive, aromatic, and delicately spiced—to his fiery lamb vindaloo, Binod makes you appreciate just how good classic Indian cuisine is when treated with respect. You may have to sacrifice your need for trendsetting to eat here, but you won’t sacrifice a drop of flavor.