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Even before he opened Hook last year, chef Barton Seaver was touting his use of responsibly sourced seafood, which quickly began to sound like an annoying sales pitch wrapped in a conservation message. I say, forget the sustainability chatter. Hook’s real hook comes from its fresh catches and Seaver’s ability to extract each fish’s clean flavors—whether the bluefish with pesto and a parsnip-potato cake or the simple crudo of yellowfin tuna. After your salty dip in the ocean, you’ll want to finish with a sweet thing from pastry chef Heather Chittum’s menu. Try her poached pear with blue-cheese mousse or her bittersweet chocolate torte with caramel ice cream. I got to say, there’s nothing at all annoying about these menus.