We know D.C. Get our free newsletter to stay in the know.

Even before he opened Hook last year, chef Barton Seaver was touting his use of responsibly sourced seafood, which quickly began to sound like an annoying sales pitch wrapped in a conservation message. I say, forget the sustainability chatter. Hook’s real hook comes from its fresh catches and Seaver’s ability to extract each fish’s clean flavors—whether the bluefish with pesto and a parsnip-potato cake or the simple crudo of yellowfin tuna. After your salty dip in the ocean, you’ll want to finish with a sweet thing from pastry chef Heather Chittum’s menu. Try her poached pear with blue-cheese mousse or her bittersweet chocolate torte with caramel ice cream. I got to say, there’s nothing at all annoying about these menus.