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Like so many comfort foods, mac ’n’ cheese has become hideously distorted from all the facelifts chefs have given it over the years. The version at Florida Avenue Grill is as straightforward as the dish gets—a generous helping of cheddar with just enough elbow macaroni to maintain the illusion that you’re not eating a bowl of melted cheese. The only bad part about planting yourself on a red bar stool here is that you may leave smelling like a shift worker at McDonald’s. But for mac ’n’ cheese this good, a shower and a trip to the laundromat are small prices to pay.