The cheese plate at Bistro Bis stinks—in the best way possible. Jeffrey Buben’s modern French bistro selects some of the finest artisanal cheeses from around the world and then neatly categorizes them under four headings on the menu—cow, goat, sheep, and “blue vein” (otherwise known as those wonderfully stinky, moldy cheeses). Experts will enjoy the variety; novices will appreciate the helpful descriptions and suggested wine pairings. The selections are served at their peak ripeness with toasted raisin bread, house-made crisps, and palate cleansers such as apricot and mustard seed jam. The portions are generous; three choices make a fine lunch for one or an ample snack for two.