Butter chicken goes by a number of names—murgh makhani, chicken makhani, sometimes even by the dubious handle of chicken tikka masala (which technically is a different dish altogether, one that often doesn’t include the standard bucket of butter). Whatever you call it, the butter chicken at Heritage India is the benchmark ’round these parts. The dish’s quality begins with its namesake ingredient, thick hunks of thigh meat freshly charred in a tandoori oven. The dark meat is far closer in spirit to the full-on chicken legs, bone and all, that you’ll find in the dish back in the mother country. Even better, the sauce doesn’t wimp out on you, either with the heat or the richness, like so many Americanized butter chickens. Served in individual chafing dishes, which keep the entree warm as you eat, the gamey chicken thighs come swimming in a deep, toasty-red sauce fragrant with spices, tomatoes, crumbly cheese, and, of course, plenty of tongue-ticking butter.