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Southern Tier Gemini

Where Spotted: Proof, 775 G St. NW

Price: $6/pint

grape and grain, together again: “[W]ine is way beyond any other subject in inspiring the American layman an urge to refute the notion of expertise,” wrote Calvin Trillin in The New Yorker in 2002. Indeed, nothing may satisfy a hophead more than sipping a double IPA in the middle of a wine bar, and Gemini is ideal for such an occasion. Take care to sip this beer: At around 10 percent abv, it’s stronger than it tastes, but its palate is more approachable, with the sweet, citrusy backbone of Dogfish Head’s 90 Minute IPA washing over the hoppy bitterness.

goes well with pretentiousness: Gemini’s blend of hops and fruitiness makes it an exemplary food beer, and Proof’s oenophilic menu offers several good pairings. The beer’s hoppy flavors will cut through and contrast with rich entrees such as crispy duck confit, while pungent Roquefort cheese in the veal sweetbread salad will bring out its fruity side. Then again, so will discussing food pairings, so keep that pinkie in check.

Seen an interesting quaff lately? E-mail beerspotter@washingtoncitypaper.com