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Victory Wild Devil

Where Spotted: The Wine Specialist, 2115 M St. NW

Price: $9.99/750ml

Feet accompli

Me: It’s like Victory HopDevil but with wild yeast.

Friend: Oh, so it’s an IPA, but it tastes like feet?

Me: It—actually, yeah.

Wild Devil is what happens when Philly-area Victory Brewing Co. ferments its IPA with Brettanomyces, a wild yeast. It’s normally an unwanted contaminant, but when tamed, wild yeast creates lambics and other “sour” beers. The flavors Brett brings to the party kindle descriptions like “farmhouse,” “blue cheese,” and yes, “feet.” These stanky ales are the Limbergers of the beer world. “Stank” might not make you salivate, but Wild Devil is a straightforward and fairly accessible intro to the world of wild yeast. At heart, it’s a a hoppy, grapefruity IPA with just a streak of Belgian spice and funk. I’d peg its funkiness at the level of disco-era Bee Gees, whereas a classic lambic would be closer to George Clinton on day five of a shroom bender.