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The steep decline of the Maryland blue crab population has turned chefs and restaurateurs to alternative sources for quality crabmeat. Some turn to Mexico, but many others look east—to Indonesia or Thailand or other inferior Asian outlets. Not Bobby Bloch, owner and chef of Bobby’s Crabcakes in Rockville. He settles for nothing less than fresh, nonpasteurized, jumbo-lump meat, from the Chesapeake, if possible, or from the Gulf otherwise. Bloch swears that Gulf blue crabs, if chosen well, can be as sweet and delicious as those from our celebrated shores. Given what I’ve tasted at his casual, retro-cool restaurant, I’d have to agree. His jumbo-lump cakes contain an absolute minimum of binder and are seasoned just enough to provide spice without drowning out the meat’s pure oceanic flavor. These cakes are the purest expression of the blue crab I’ve ever tasted.101 Gibbs St., Rockville, Md., (301) 217-0858