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I have such a love-hate relationship with this Glover Park institution. A while back, my wife had a serious, sudden afternoon jones for Heritage India. It was the kind of urge that reminded of the Randy Newman line: “You better get a burger or something in her right away. If you don’t, you’re gonna pay.” Well, when we arrived at the place a few minutes after 2 p.m., a good 25 minutes before Heritage’s lunch cutoff, they told us they were closed. The wife was crushed, and I had to adopt a tough-guy persona to get the staff to relent. On other visits, I’ve had to adopt thick skin, since the wait staff tends to treat you as if they have a hundred better things to do. It’s a good thing, then, that Heritage’s food forgives all sins. Its rich, fragrant curries, prepared with painstaking care to the art of Indian cooking, make all others seem anemic by comparison.2400 Wisconsin Ave. NW, (202) 333-3120
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