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Goose Island Sofie

Where Spotted: D’Vines, 3103 14th St. NW

Price: $9/22 oz. bottle

Commander-in-Chaff: Belgian wheat lovers take note, this beer is a bullseye in a wheelhouse that’s right up your alley. It has everything you love but intensified: more citrus, more Champagne fizz, more tickly spice for a dry finish. Because it’s aged in wine barrels, there’s also a hint of green grape, a one-eyebrow raise that elevates it above your go-to six-pack. (The Beerspotter has been shopping at D’Vines a lot lately, but it bought nine of the 20 cases of Sofie allotted to all of D.C.)

Fungal Love: Smell that? It smells briny, like olives. That’s the work of wild yeast, devious little critters that live in the air and find their way into Belgian-style saisons, or farmhouse beers. In most beer this is considered spoilage, but when used on purpose (kinda like bleu cheese) the result can be funky, sour, fungal, or vegetal off-flavors. Don’t be scared—Sofie’s wild yeast is very mild, with just a touch of WTF in the aroma.