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Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold

Where Spotted: Sherry’s Wine & Spirits, 2315 Calvert St. NW

Price: $10.99/6-pack

Something Gold Can Stay: There’s a bell curve to liking beer: You start with crap, then discover extreme flavors in face-melting IPAs and milkshake stouts. But no fire can burn that hot forever. Soon you’re geeking out over subtle, malty lagers that Extreme You would’ve shunned. Dortmunder Gold is that kind of beer, sturdy at 6 percent abv and sweet with grain like a fresh baguette.

Beginning to See the Lite: An old Bud commercial once said that golden lagers are hard to make because you can’t “hide imperfections” like you can in dark beer. It’s kind of true—how many of your favorite microbreweries even make lagers? Great Lakes does, and its Yuengling-killer, the amber-tinted Eliot Ness, is just as special as the Dortmunder Gold.