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Oliver’s Three Spires

Where Spotted: CommonWealth Gastropub, 1400 Irving St. NW

Price: $7/pint, $8/20 oz.

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Laughing Glass: CommonWealth serves this golden ale “on nitro,” which gives beer the creamy head made famous by Guinness and Boddingtons. I’ve always thought this process robs beer of its aroma and flavor, but mostly that effect is less due to the nitrous oxide injection and more because Boddingtons tastes like a beer-and-water cocktail. Still, it’ll do in a pinch—until you taste Three Spires.

Bitter Than Nothing: Hopheads take heed; this beer is hoppy by British standards, which is to say, not really at all. But if you’re addicted to bitterness—and brother, I was once like you—take this mild, English-style ale as an opportunity to savor subtlety. Or make spotted-dick jokes. Your choice.

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