Starr Hill Jomo Lager

Where Spotted: Radius, 3155 Mount Pleasant St. NW

Price: $6 a pint

Upper Crust: As an underage drinker in Pennsylvania, I grew up on Yuengling and pizza, a formative pairing second only to milk and cookies. The toastiness of an amber lager matches every facet of good pie crust, from its sweet, bready undertones to the ever so subtle caramelization of its bubbles of char. As an adult, I put away such childish things as Yuengling. Starr Hill’s Jomo—richer and toastier than those bottles from America’s oldest brewery—is a significant step up.

Trip to Bountiful: Crozet, Va., serves up a terrific pizza and beer combination, if not exactly under the same roof. The historic Crozet Pizza, once a one-person pie operation, is justification enough for a road trip south. But so is Crozet’s other attraction, Starr Hill, where you can secure growlers of its beer (unlike in D.C., which has a loose interpretation of open-container laws). The brewery also serves experimental batches on draft, such as its current Belgian-style tripel, which may not be as experimental as last year’s offering, a copper-colored hellerbock with just a touch of smoke, far more subtle than those brisket-esque rauchbiers.

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