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WHERE SPOTTED: Modern Liquors, 1200 9th St. NW

PRICE: $13.99 per 4-pack

GOURD TO DEATH: Each fall, I feel an irresistible pressure to enjoy pumpkin beer. Like with Valentine’s Day or the Olympics, I always try to dial up some automated appetite for the stuff, but I just can’t get excited about spiking beer with artificial pie filling. I’ve feigned joy at enough house parties, and it’s time I said it on the record: I don’t like pumpkin beer. Besides, this month has an eponymous festival and a beer style; can’t we just drink Oktoberfest and save the pumpkin for dessert?

SPICE IS RIGHT: Like every pumpkin beer, Weyerbacher’s is sweet, my main complaint with the genre. If you can get past that, you will be treated to a softer, more complex spicing than the cinnamon bombs that usually line the shelves at this time of year. Along with the offending bark, Imperial Pumpkin Ale is brewed with nutmeg, cardamom, and cloves. The cardamom in particular makes for a round, heady drink—though, personally, I’d opt for a gingerbread cookie and a mug of chai.